Breakfast in the campsite was oatcakes, cheese and dates which Martin has carried around for days. It has rained overnight but the campsite was great only charging £2.50 for walkers. We walked into Looe which wasn't far, crossed the narrow estuary for £0.40, did our shopping for the day and got on the coast path again. The walk to Seaton was tough then the walk to Portwrinkle was even harder and frankly not that interesting. I wondered why I felt so tired until thinking back realised I had not had a day off for 2 weeks. It seems like there was nothing in Portwrinkle until we came across the Whitsand Bay Hotel where we had an even more expensive cream tea at £7.50 but enjoyed the comfort and ammenities of an excellent establishment. Martin was tempted to stay with the offer of dinner, bed and breakfast for £90 per person. It did not fit with our schedule which is to get to Plymouth for him to catch the 1.00pm train back to London. The next section of the walk we saw described as a black hole for walkers of the Southwest Coast Path. We understood why when we set off on the road towards Rame Head. The path is forced inland by a large area of MOD property after which everything felt different. There were travellers by the roadside selling things and then what looked like hippy travellers a littler further on. Getting back to the west facing stretch towards Rame Head where I imagine the beaches attract surfers, all the dwellings were merely glorified chalets, no pub or churches and only one cafe which closed at 4pm. It was by then nearer 8 o'clock. We entered Whitsand Bay Holiday Park and were allowed to pitch our tents on the basis that we were walkers and only wished to stay one night. We encamped around the edge of a 1860 Battery built in case Napoleon III invaded, bought a bottle of champagne and drank it with our fish and chips in the bar. This is a lonely bleak stretch of coast which has in the past been part of Devon. The landscape has changed and feels more like Devon where we shall be tomorrow.