I was supposed to get another 4 miles along the coast but I had managed to get a bed in the very good Youth Hostel at Covernack. I had planned to dump my sack and complete the scheduled walk but it had been much harder and slower than expected. I took 7 hours just to get to the hostel. I'm sleeping on the top bunk tonight so am reducing my liquid intake this evening as I don't fancy climbing down and up ladders to visit the bathroom. It's a change to have fresh linen compared with the backpackers dormitory in Penzance which smelt uncared for. It was very hot all day today. There was a lot of overgrown vegetation to walk through which in the heat was claustrophobic at times and the flies were wild with excitement. A lot of the coast is owned by the National Trust. They have a variety of horses, ponies and cattle grazing the coast keeping down the braken and therefore encouraging wild flowers. There are more little fishing villages on the east side of the Lizard which is generally more sheltered. I stopped for coffee in the delightful, still active fishing port of Cadgwith where there were loads of fresh crab and lobster and where the lifeboat has saved hundreds of lives. The air-sea rescue helicopters and the lifeboats are kept busy throughout the year. In addition, today, I passed a lookout post which is manned 365 days a year by unpaid trained volunteers - fantastic! There were lots of people on the beach and in the sea at Kennack Sands but a couple of miles along was a much nicer beach only accessible along the coast path. A man was seemingly alone playing on the beach with his 2 dogs when out of the sea appeared his semi-naked girlfriend. I looked away, of course, despite being a hundred yards distance on the path. Covernack is a small old fishing village not even big enough for a Spar! Kaya is going to hear Bruce Springsteen in Hyde Park tomorrow, Jonathan is performing at Glastonbury, and I continue to sing at least a little over the rivers and streams I cross.
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