Songline On Sea

From writing blog on beach to writing blog in Chinese restaurant. Andy had said last night that someone camped on exactly the same spot as me three weeks ago. Last night was the most heavenly experience. I fell asleep fully clothed with the tent open and woke up cold at 1 o'clock with the moon having risen above the far cliff. I closed up for the night and woke again in good time to pack everything away by 9 am and before anyone passed. In fact I didn't see anyone till breakfast which I took in a cafe close to the beach at Craig Cairlian. A good 2 miles cliff walk before breakfast makes a bacon, egg and sausage bap taste very special even with instant coffee. The best part of the Ceredigion (Cardigan) coast was to come. The peacefully soothing farmland, although undulating, gives no clue to the dramatic nature of the high cliffs, wonderful rock features, hidden coves and beaches. The path and landscape was as good as anywhere I have seen the whole journey which is now nearly 3,000 miles. Much of this path is brand new having only been opened in July of this year. This makes it too new to be on the o/s map and there will surely be more signs soon - there needs to be. A new £10 book is available to coincide with the opening but it is too heavy to carry and surely it should be clear to walk without the need for a book at all. There are a lot of iron age hill forts and I photographed some strange circles visible in a field leading up to one. Sadly it started to rain at Penbryn as forecast so I wasn't going to walk anymore of the cliff path which was muddy enough without rain. I was also exhausted having walked up and down steep slopes all day and was still a long way from Cardigan. Si I walked a few miles by road till I could walk no further and caught a bus the last few miles from Aberporth. The bus went via Mwnt - yet another delightful beach and once again a National Trust property. Across the estuary from Cardigan the Pembroke Coast Path starts and the last leg of this year's journey. Not sure about Cardigan. I found Llangrannog and the coast around it the best bit today. I was lucky to find a spare single room tonight - it was certainly the last in this Gwely a Brecwast.

What a difference good weather makes. I have had a reasonable night except for a group with one particulary loud Canadian voice in the next field who were still talking when I woke at 4 am and then a baby started crying. When I got up at 9 am I had thought of a few things to say to the Canadian but amazingly he was already up and was neadly 7 foot tall. I gave him a withering look and he put on music which was as dull as his voice last night. Aberaeron was heaving with Bank Holiday bustle, everyone pleased about the good weather. It's the busiest weekend of the year down here so livelihoods depend on the sun shining. It seems that the family unit is very close in Wales with grandparents having an especially important role. Lovely cliff top path to New Quay which was positively heaving, the seagulls deliriously happy with so many unfinished fish and chips around. The cliff path south was very slow going and I wasn't sure where I would end up. It's mayhem in the campsites and all accomodation is booked so I was prepared to wild camp since the weather was so good. I was tired by 6.30 pm when a heavenly beach appeared and behold a little flat patch beside the path aloft. There I am perched and have had a wonderful evening. On the menu was dried whitebait from Japan, miso soup also from Japan followed by a chicken and mushroom pie. I'm writing this on the beach as the tide comes in. It's a very dark night. Andy came up and sat down beside my tent as I was eating earlier. He told me this was all National Trust property which means there should be no camping. Andy was not bothered. He's a stay-at-home dad bringing up 2 children, so he was out for a walk having put them to bed and was glad to chat. I'm going to put myself to bed soon as there's nothing else to do but go to sleep with the sound of the sea in my ears.