I saw James off on the 8:54am bus to pick up his car in Nefyn and drive home. He didn't get back to East Grinstead until 8:00pm and is now officially ko'd. I have done another long 15 mile walk along beaches and around points and feel exactly the same. After 10 days without a break tomorrow is going to be a much needed day off - a decision made easier by learning that tomorrow's weather is scheduled to be awful. Today was okay as a walking day and the rain held off until 8:00pm by which time I had got to the hostel in Tremadog. I had thought of camping out in the largest area of campsites I have ever seen between Criccieth and Porthmadog but I had no food and the weather turned colder.

I enjoyed the walk down to Abersoch and then along the mostly beach to Pwllheli except for one moment. To round a headland I had to climb up off the beach up a scree. One of the larger rocks I put my foot on decided to slide downhill via my right shin resulting in a significant contact. I didn't want to look at it and when I did there was a raw and bloody six-inch gash. Pwllheli was uninspiring and, on close scrutiny of the map, I decided to take the train to Criccieth. This was an excellent idea as the few miles got me over a marsh, a large river and past a holiday camp that used to be Butlins and is now a Haven camp.

Criccieth is a very pleasant town with a ruined castle atop a coastal hill. Cardigan Bay was now before me with the mountains of Snowdonia arranged magnificently behind. After all the campsites it was a hard slog up and down hills to Porthmadog which didn't look very exciting, then little Tremadog with loads of pubs and eating places. The settlements inland seem more interesting and enchanting than the coastal towns.

The hostel here is where T E Lawrence was born and the warden thinks it was in the very room I am sleeping in. The warden is 48 years old and after the third time he addressed me as "young man" I challenged him. He claimed it was like saying "mate" but I said in the circumstances it could easily be considered rude - he now calls me Tom! The magic of the Lleyn Peninsular has now gone and I would guess that the experience of that area will be hard to beat.