The weather was actually not bad and did not turn until 8pm this evening. The one almighty shower happened whilst I was in a church. I set off from Caenarfon at 11am which is quite good for me. I had arranged to meet James at Nefyn at 5pm so I had to get a move on. I took the coast route which gave me a chance to see the famous spit which is trying to close the Menai Strait. The Dredger works constantly across the narrow channel to keep it open. I was going well until I took what looked like a sensible short cut only to find just how much rain had fallen last night when I met one of those gates that cows go through. There was no alternative but to go through the shitty, muddy lake as fast as possible after which the effect went up to my shins, my feet were wet for 4 hours and the smell still lingers. Even the farmyard dogs left me alone. At Clynnog fawr there is a mighty church where pilgrims met to journey down to Bardsey Island off the end of the Lleyn Penninsula. Three visits to that holy shrine was the equivalent of one to Jerusalem - a good option for poorer pilgrims. From there the path goes between some dramatic peaks which spawned a lucrative slate industry. Most of the headstones in Llanaelhaearn were of grey slate - another pilgrim stop as were Pistyll and Nefyn. In each of these villages was also a Bethesda Chapel for the con-conformist workers. Most of these have recently been sold presumably for domestic use. I met up with James Dunsby. James lives in my house in East Grinstead and walked with me last year to St. Cedd's Chapel in Essex since when he has done 6 months service in Afghanistan with the TA. He is terrific company which I was reminded of over dinner on the floating restaurant in Caenarfon where I had the same delicious roast Welsh lamb as last night. It's raining hard and has turned cold which is not good news since we intend camping at the tip of the Lleyn Penninsula tomorrow night! I have developed a cough and a cold.